L-M BRIC News No. 13 June 5, 2010 © 2010
L-M Braiding Research & Information Center / Masako Kinoshita
5 Winthrop Place, Ithaca, NY 14850 U. S. A.
Phone & Fax 607-257-0886 e-mail ::mkinoshi@twcny.rr.com
L-M BRIC News No.13
Home Nihongo-ban No. 13 Bibliography World Distribution Map
Report from a Trip in Yao Country, Yunan, China
Akiko Yoda
L-M braiding of Hongtou
(Red Head) Yao People
Place of recording: Ba yi cun (Eight 0ne Village), Jinhe Zhen, Jinping Xian, Yunnan, China.
Date of recording: 9/16/2009
Braiding demonstrators: Pan, Guiying (age 71) , Li, Liumei (age 65)
Preparation of the Braiding yarn: Make a skein with 5 turns of the yarn in the color and the length desired. Knot one end of the skein together where the yarn was cut. The knot will become the braid head. Fix the braid head to a support.
They buy colorful acrylic yarns at the market held on every "day of Rat."
Introduction
Our bus made a sudden stop when we saw a woman carrying a baby on her back walking along the road side as it was descending a long downhill mountain road from a 2,000-meter elevation. After some moment of photo-taking, we bombarded her with questions; the shape of the characteristic red cap, the cut of their pants, and the pattern motifs of their embroidery. Yao people that live in this region are known as the "red-cap Yao" because of the red cap all women of this community wear, and their colorful reverse embroidery. As I noticed the braided hem of her pants, I gave her a ready-to-braid 5-loop warp for demonstration. To my surprise, she quickly produced a thick sturdy 2-ridge braid using a <loop braiding> method with the palms facing down which I have never seen before. She is from the Sun village, not the one we are heading to. The bus continued onwards with all of us highly looking forward to the visit to Ba yi Village the next day.
The next day, the Ba yi villagers, all dressed up in their traditional best, gathered for us in the central plaza of the village, prearranged by Mr. Luo Wenfu, the editor of the Jinping Province Regional History. We, the visitors, got all busy with questions according to our research subjects. I held up high the braid the woman had made the day before in my hand and called out "teach me how to make this braid!" Two women came right up and showed me in turn how to make it exactly the same way as one I had seen the day before. I followed her movements as she showed me working slowly. I managed to follow through while getting advice to pull harder to tighten. At the end I surprised them by how well I could follow their instructions.
Then my eyes fell
on the braid edging
stitched along the beautifully embroidered neck opening of her top and
I asked
her how to make it. It was a 4-ridge twill flat braid procedure that we
are
all familiar with by now using "the palms facing each other with the
inner-finger as the operator (method 2) method." Then my eyes caught a
square braid tied around the hip of the woman standing next to her that
held
down the heavy silver ornaments from shaking. Oh, then they must have
twin
2-ridge flat braids! The answer was positive! So delighted was I at the
discovery of the three basic procedures of the l-m braiding, I showed
off my
skill of braiding all three to their surprise. They all applauded
exclaiming
"very good!!"
I noted that the three basic braids, twin 2-ridge flat, square (4-ridge twill tubular), and 4-ridge twill flat braids are made using "palms facing each other using the ring finger (inner finger), as well as a 5-loop 2-ridge tubular <flat> braid using the palms facing down and using the ring finger. They utilize braids for every day needs in Ba yi Village.
How to make the basic three kinds of braids and their usages:
Initial loop arrangement and the operator: mount a loop each on a, b of both hands and lc. The first operator is Rc that has no loop on.
How to hold the hands and transfer the loops: with the loops on you fingers, hold your open palms facing each other in front of you. Insert Rc through the inside of the lc and lb and take* and pull la out through them, letting it off La. la has now been transferred to rc. For the next step, do the same but in the mirror image.
* When
taking the 'a' loops
(la or ra): for braid (1) take both by 'O,' (2) by 'C,' and (3) the
first step
by 'O' and then the second by 'C.'
(1)
Twin
2-ridge
flat
braids:
Button
loops
for
men's jackets.
(2)
Square
braids: (top right)
(3)
4-ridge
flat braid: (at right)
Edge trimmings on the facings of women's tops.
Thick
2-ridge
Tubular**
braids
and their usages
Initial loop
arrangement and the operator: the same as above. Mount a loop each on
a, b of
both hands and lc. The operator is the empty c finger.
How to hold the hands and transfer the loops: with the loops mounted on your fingers as described above, hold your open palms facing down.
This procedure produces a thick and sturdy braid as the upper and lower shanks of each loop get braided into each stitch. **Actually this is a flat braid which Yoda mistook as tubular because of its thickness. (Photo5) The braid is used trimmings for hem areas of women's slacks.
How to make:
Step
1:
Take
la by Rc,
quickly turning the right palm to the left and inserting Ra upward into
la then
quickly turning the right palm face downward. (Now, la is on RC.)
Shift the left loops. Tighten the structure by pulling the loops down and side ways with open arms.
Step 2: Take ra by Lc, quickly turning the left palm to the right and inserting La upward into ra then quickly turning the left palm face downward. (Now, ra is on LC.)
Shift the right loops. Tighten the structure by pulling the loops down and side ways with open arms.
Repeat steps 1 and 2.
Red (or vermillion) and white (or yellow) 2-ridge flat braids are stitched in double rows on the hem area of women's slacks covered with famed Yao reverse embroidery.
The pants covered with colorful embroidery that the Yao women wear have a common cut in the all regions they live. The motifs and names of the embroidery, however, show regional characteristics. The finishing of the hems of the pants also shows regional difference.
The following is the list I made based on regional variations of the hem finishing techniques:
(1) Embroidery only, in Vietnam and China.
(2) 3-element 2-ridge flat braids made using the free-end braiding, in Vietnam and China.
(3) square braids made using the l-m braiding, in Thai.
(4) 5-element (loop) 2-ridge flat braids made using the l-m braiding, in China.
Conclusion
I noted that the three basic braids, twin 2-ridge flat, square (4-ridge twill tubular, and 4-ridge twill flat braids are made using "palms facing each other using the ring finger (inner finger). They also have a rather rare method of making a 5-loop 2-ridge flat braid using the palms facing down and using the ring finger. They utilize braids for every day needs in Ba yi Village.
Other Yoa subgroup peoples I visited on this trip, Sha Yao and Ranten (spelling uncertain) Yao, do not use the l-m braiding at all. The Ranten Yaos make square braids using a free-end braiding method using 8 elements for their shoulder-bag straps.
I intend to continue to survey the distribution of braiding techniques on every chance I have.
(End of the Report from a Trip in Yao Country, Yunnan, China, by Akiko Yoda)
(Chinese Romanization is based on Pinyin system pronounced in Putonghua (the standard Chinese). Actual pronunciations in the area that Yoda visited may be quite different from those given here.)
Editor's comments:
Akiko Yoda, who reported in the News #5 on the Yao people in Thai, and in the News #11 the l-m braiding among the Yi Nationality people who lived in the Sichuan province, took another trip to southern China this time far south, near the border with Vietnam, and brought back this report. When we see so many encounters with l-m braiding in these remote places, we get a false impression that the technique can be found anywhere you go. In fact it takes careful planning and preparation to succeed.
She reports the Hongtou (Red-head) Yao's practice of the basic three l-m procedures with the "palms facing each other, operating with the 'fingers c' (= the inner finger), using 5 loops. This confirms that they practice the same method recorded widely in the southeast and the east regions of Asia.
In addition, Yoda reports a procedure that she had never seen before: a method in which the braider holds the palms facing down. She reports that the procedure produces a 2-ridge tubular braid using 5 loops in which the two shanks of the loop get worked into each stitch. While she took this thick braid as tubular for its rounded cross section, it is structure-wise a flat braid. Further examination proved that this method results essentially in the same structure as that produced by "the palms facing each other (or up) operated with the small (inner) fingers," the predominant method used in eastern and southern Asia. Concerning the facing directions of the palms, there are various reports that prove that they are quite mobile while working. However, we would like to point out that this is the first report of the Method 2 procedure for making a 2-ridge flat braid for which two shanks of the loops are worked into one stitch.
Although the braid this procedure produces has the simplest structure of all braids that "anybody knows and can make," records for the l-m procedure are few either in old records or field researches. As far as we know, #62 for a 7-loop braid of 67 procedures in the Tollemache Book is the only one. Another is one used for the end finishing for Peruvian double-weave belts. This record, therefore, makes the first report of the method-2 procedure for making 2-ridge flat braid in which each loop is worked in as one element.
(End of Editor's note.)
Book Review
by Ingrid Crickmore
European Loop Braiding: Investigations and Results Part I, Part II
By Noémi Speiser and Joy Boutrup
Edited and published by Jennie Parr
I snapped up these 2 publications as soon as they hit the stands (see below for U.S. and U.K. sources). They are more impressive than I had expected from seeing the online thumbnails―magazine-size, on good-quality paper, 41 and 65 pages respectively, very nicely laid-out, with clear diagrams and beautiful illustrations including many pages of colour photographs and colour-coded charts. They are also the most exciting new publications on loop braiding since Noemi Speiser’s awe-inspiring work Old English Pattern Books for Loop Braiding (2000). In fact they resolve two of the very few (only?) loop braiding mysteries that Speiser was unable to solve in that work. (NB--they are based on and assume a familiarity with OEPBforLB.)
Part I: Orthodox and unorthodox exchanging of loops in co-operation
Part I is an analysis of a crucial move in multiple-worker loop braids―the move that links each worker’s separate braid to that (those) of the other worker(s) so one larger cohesive braid is formed. There are several possible ways to do this, most of them “orthodox” methods that produce largely symmetrical results. (One of these methods had been hypothesized by Noemi Speiser but was not known from any past or extant braiding traditions until it was recently observed and described by Keiko Kusakabe in Sulawesi, Indonesia). One unorthodox exchange had been noted by Speiser and others in some surviving braids, but the exact method could not be determined. Now Speiser’s student Joy Boutrup has discovered the method―a simple method that results in a very odd and unorthodox structure. Furthermore she and others have been able to place this technique in a much larger historical context than had been previously realized.
The publication includes many clearly drawn diagrams, plus beautiful colour photographs of braid artefacts from the 13th through 17th centuries.
The mystery of the unorthodox loop-exchange was infinitely more interesting than I had expected. This is largely because of its history, and the clues that Joy Boutrup used to deduce the method. The method apparently goes back to at least the 12th and 13th centuries―all the older multiple-worker European loop braids that have been found so far incorporate it.
This older method was ignored―purposely so, Speiser and Boutrup are certain―in the extant 15th C manuscripts―no braids incorporating it were described at all. All multiple-worker braid “recipes” used a (carefully described) orthodox method of exchanging loops.
Yet, lo and behold, 200 years later the next batch of surviving loop-braiding manuscripts did include a few braid recipes incorporating the ancient unorthodox loop exchange, so it obviously had not died out in the 15th C. These included the “Bucks Hornes” braid (apparently a strikingly attractive braid that I now must learn! Back to OEPBforLB!) In OEPBforLB, Noemi Speiser had arrived at a workable, if not quite correct, guess as to this loop-exchange method, and hypothesized that this odd and uncommon loop-exchange might have been the result of a fortuitous 17th C mistake that was then exploited for its pretty effect. Now the odd exchange’s true method has been figured out, as well as its historical significance. One of the most amazing clues to its method was noticed by Boutrup in a photograph from Dalarna, Sweden in or before 1937―taken of 3 co-operating braiders at precisely that point in the braiding cycle when the unorthodox loop-exchange was happening, and corroborating her theory about this exchange. Considering that there are almost no known photographs of ANY loop braider before the last few years, this was an amazing find!
Part II: Instructions for Letter Braids in 17th Century Manuscripts
Part II is on the famous “letterbraids” described in various 17th C English manuscripts, and found in a few surviving braids. These are 2-color loop braids patterned to form the letters of the alphabet and various other symbols like "the spider", "the fly", "lover's knot", crosses, edgings, etc. They were braided by two braiders working in tandem, possibly with a director calling out the pattern. The few text suggestions for letter-braids in these old manuscripts were rhyming couplets, mostly on the order of "when this you see, remember mee", so these braids may have been popular as tokens of affection.
In OEPBforLB, Noemi Speiser tantalizingly transcribed the 17th C. instructions, but could not quite “crack” the methods for the 2 types of letter-braids known to her at the time. (one is a 14-loop braid and the other a 10-loop braid). As Braid Society members may remember, a third type of letter-braid has come to light since then―during a Braid Society visit to the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford in 2007, where the group was shown a 17th C manuscript called “The Nun’s Book”. This book contained a section entitled “Directions for weaving watch strings” which described a 10-loop letter-braid that had a different braiding method than either of the two Speiser had previously encountered.
Joy Boutrup has now figured them all out and in this work gives us a detailed analysis of their structures, plus instructions for making them. Also included are chapters with descriptions and colour photographs of 2 different 17th C purses (in different collections) with braids similar or identical to some of these 3 letter-braids. (For those who are interested in learning how to make these braids, see my notes on this below).
In summary, these 2 publications convey a real sense of the impressive scope and history of loop braiding and are an important addition to our knowledge of the heights of European loop-braiding. If not for Noemi Speiser's earlier work, and this continuing research by her and Joy Boutrup, many centuries of development of sophisticated braiding techniques might have been lost. This rich panoply of single and multiple-worker braids were meticulously described and notated in Speiser's Old English Pattern Books for Loop Braiding. Now Joy Boutrup has added more to this rediscovery. I look forward to reading the upcoming Parts III and IV!
Available in the U.K. from the publisher: send SAE to Jennie Parry, 21 St Philip's Road, Leicester LE5 5TR. UK, or email jennieparry2003@yahoo.co.uk
Available in the U.S. from BraidersHand:
http://www.braidershand.com/bhbooks1.html
Notes on learning the letter-braids in Part II:
Not everyone will be interested in learning these which is why I add this as a postscript. I myself was very eager to learn how to braid these letter-braids. And I must say it is very exciting to braid words! These braids are probably slower to make than similarly complex ones, but hold ones interest much better. It is very satisfying to see the letters and words emerge on the braid.
On first opening the book I got the mistaken impression that I would have to thoroughly understand the structural analysis of each braid before attempting to learn how to braid it! That turned out not to be the case after all. In subsequent chapters I just gleaned as much as I could on a first read of Boutrup’s structural detective work and then went to the braid instructions. In fact, it turns out that doing the braid helps one understand the structural analysis.
I found the 2nd and the 3rd braid (the 14-loop braid and the Nun’s book braid) easier to learn than the first one in the book, but that may not be the case for other braiders. The first braid turned out to be no harder than the others to braid, once I got past an unusual move in the beginning! Boutrup's step-by-step instructions (located in the appendices with the charts) are succinct and clear. Proficiency in fingerloop braiding is assumed, however―don’t pick these as your first braids.
Boutrup’s charts are very braider-friendly―laid out in a natural left-right orientation and colour-coded for clarity. The instructions for the 3 braiding methods and the accompanying charts for each letter are located in appendices toward the back of the book (pp 49-52). The only slight inconvenience with this layout was that initially I had to keep flipping back to the pertinent chapter for a few bits of necessary info – the pictures and diagrams of how the finished letters should look, and (in the very beginning) how to change the colours for the various letter-shapes. (This is a separate process from the basic braiding method, and is done by turning certain of the bicolour loops on the fingers between each braiding cycle, according to the chart for that letter.) It helped to put binder clips onto the 2 sections I needed to flip between. However, once the initial learning period was over, I could then work from the charts in the appendix with no more flipping of pages. All in all I think it was wise to put the charts etc in the back, they are very easy to locate and use there, and don’t get in the way for readers who aren’t interesting in actually making the braids.
It’s helpful to have a holder to prop the book upright for reading the letter-charts while braiding (a music stand would be perfect). If both braiders want to see the charts it may be worthwhile to make a 2nd copy or enlarge one for both to use. Alternatively one braider can read the chart aloud line-by-line, the way the 17th C braiders probably did. I managed to find ways to make these braids on my one set of hands, so I can report that this is possible, though probably not very practicable unless you are already used to making other 2-worker braids this way.
The publisher is providing a short errata list for the books that will be included in the future and is available on request if you have already bought your copy. The errata are quite minor, but do affect some of the charts, so it’s worth getting and making the few corrections before you start to work the braids. 2 publications, available separately or together. Parts III and IV are not yet published.
(End of Crickmore's review)
L-M BRIC News Index No. 1-12
|
SUBJECT |
TECHNIQUE |
REGION |
PERIOD |
FORMAT |
SOURCE |
|
|
1998 0 |
l-m braiding |
Photos: Yunnan, China, Rima, Peru |
1998 |
Face page message, photos, links to the news issues |
|
|
|
1998 1 |
f-h l-m |
Yunnan, China |
1st c. BCE |
Photos, drawings |
Li-chia Shan Bronze ware Museum, Informer; J. Watabe; |
|
|
1998 1 |
f-h l-m (Method 2 is assumed) |
India |
1940's |
Drawing |
American Fabrics, 1949. Informer: F. Sober |
|
|
1998 1 |
possibly l-m braiding |
Constance, Germany |
13th c. |
Report, photo |
Romanze der Kleidung, 1942. Informer: F. Sorber |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m |
San Blas Island, Panama |
20th c. |
Cuna Indian Art, 1969; C. Keeler. Photos, techniques |
Cuna Indian Art by Clyde Keeler. Informer: F. Sorber |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m |
Western Siberia, Russia |
20th c. |
eyewitness report, technical analysis. |
National Archaeology and Ethnology Institute, Novosibirsk, Russia. Informer: T. Kinoshita. |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m |
general |
general |
Introductory instructions, |
Illustrated instruction series; Introduction I |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated instruction series no. 2 |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated instruction series no. 2 |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m, spirit bridge, square and UOs. |
Panama. |
20th c. |
instruction, hypothetical |
Illustrated instruction series no. 2 |
|
|
1999 2 |
f-h l-m; UO braid. |
Russia. and others. |
20th c. |
instruction, hypothetical |
Illustrated instruction series no. 2 |
|
|
2000 3 |
f-h l-m (Method 1) |
London, GB |
12th-14th c. |
Report |
Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, 1992. |
|
|
2000 3 |
f-h l-m (Method 2 assumed) |
Yunnan, China |
1st c. BCE |
Eyewitness report, photo |
Li-chia Shan Bronze ware Museum; M. Kinoshita |
|
|
2000 3 |
f-h l-m (Method 2 assumed) |
The Paw Karens and the Akhas, Thailand |
1990's |
eyewitness report and photos |
R. Napier |
|
|
2000 3 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
England, GB |
15th-17th c. |
book, soft cover, spiral bound. |
Introduction by author, N. Speiser/Switzerland, 2000. |
|
|
2000 3 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
general |
|
Introduction |
Illustrated Instruction Series. |
|
|
2000 3 |
Two basic braids with an unorthodox pattern |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
general |
|
Introduction I |
Illustrated Instruction Series |
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
Sweden |
15th c. |
Structural analysis report, photo |
Estham and Speiser, 1997. |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
England |
15th c. |
report. |
Tollemache Book of Secrets |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
Nuerenberg, Germany |
15th c. |
photo |
Document in the collection of the library of Heidelberg Univ. Report by the discoverer : Ute Bergmann, 2000 |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
England |
17th c. |
instruction |
Illustrated Instruction Series no. 4. |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
England |
17th c. |
Household book Reported by N. Speiser |
Sloane 556 (British Library). Informer; L. M. Swinburne, analysis by N. Speiser. |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m? |
Portugal |
1993 |
letter |
M. L. Franzen, N. Speiser |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
England |
17th c. |
report |
The manual of braiding, Speiser |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m lace-making technique |
England |
17th c. |
instruction |
illustrated instruction series no. 4, |
|
|
2001 4 |
f-h l-m, basketry |
Japan |
2001 |
creative works |
Y. Hoshino |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m warp twining |
Pakistan |
2001 |
eyewitness report, photos by R. Napier |
R. Napier |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated instruction series no. 5 |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m SCOT in two sections |
Japan |
5th c. |
report, photo |
WOAM conference, Stockholm, Sweden. M. Omura, et. al. |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m |
Japan |
|
technical analysis. |
Illustrated Instruction Series no. 5 |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m method 2 |
Thai |
2001 |
eyewitness report, photos |
A. Yoda |
|
|
2002 5 |
kute-uchi |
Kyoto, Japan |
1930's |
illustration on a fan. |
Original source unknown. Informer; K. Tanaka. |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m |
Sakai, Japan |
2002 |
photo |
C. Akita at Senhoku Greens Institute |
|
|
2002 5 |
f-h l-m (Method 2 confirmed) |
India |
1960/s? |
|
Informer; L. Swales |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h lm |
Copenhagen, Denmark |
17th c. |
Report, structural analysis, photo, diagrams. |
Collection of Royal Copenhagen Museum. Katia Johansen with J. Boutrup. |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m method 1 |
Denmark |
|
instruction |
Illustrated Instructions: Series no. 6 |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m, method 2 |
Aomori, Japan |
2002 |
Report |
M. Omura |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m, method 2 |
Aomori, Japan |
2002 |
Instruction |
Reiko Kumeda. Contributor: M. Omura |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m |
Egypt |
19th c. |
copperplate printing |
Description de l'Egypte/Publiee de ordre de Napoleon Bonaparte. Informer: B. Oberwinkler |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m |
Bulgaria |
19th c. |
|
F. Kanitz. Informer: F. Sorber |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m |
Japan |
17th c. |
drawing |
Copy by Hakuseki Arai of the "71-pairs of artisan poetry match." |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m method 1 |
Germany |
15th-16th c. |
report by N. Speiser |
manuscript bundle at Badische Landesbibliotek, Karlsruhe, Germany |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m method 1 |
Germany |
15th-16th c. |
instruction by N. Speiser |
Illustrated instructions series no. 6. |
|
|
2003 6 |
f-h l-m method 1 |
Finland |
20th c. |
Eyewitness report. Informer; N. Speiser. |
Suomen Kansanomaista Kulyyuuria: Esineellisen Kansatieteen Tulksia II. Also from Finischen Ornamente, 1983 |
|
|
2004 7 |
f-h l-m (method 1) |
Israel (anciet Egypt) |
13th c. BCE |
report and photos |
The Egyptian Mining Temple at Timna, 1988. Informer; C. Priest-Dorman. |
|
|
2004 7 |
kute-uchi |
Aomori, Japan. |
14th-16th c. |
Report |
Mari Omura |
|
|
2004 7 |
kute-uchi; 2-person connection method |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated Instructions Series no. 7 |
|
|
2004 7 |
h-h l-m, introduction |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated instruction |
|
|
2004 7 |
f-h l-m |
Sion, Switzerland |
The Middle Ages |
report, structural analysis and photos |
Braids on relic purses in Sion, Switzerland. J. Boutrup. |
|
|
2004 7 |
f-h l-m |
Denmark |
17th c. |
report and photos |
button hole frogs on the coat of Count Ulrick, the Elder, found from his coffin. |
|
|
2004 7 |
f-h l-m warp twining |
Florence, Italy |
15th c. |
Fresco painting |
Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. Informer & photo: N. Speiser's old friend |
|
|
2004 7 |
l-m or tablet? |
Llangorse, Wales, GB. |
9th-10th c. |
Photos |
L. Mumford. |
|
|
2004 7 |
kute-uchi |
Japan |
|
instruction |
Illustrated instructions; Basic Techniques |
|
|
2004 7 |
kute-uchi: 2-person connection method |
|
|
instruction |
Illustrated Instruction series 7; How to make |
|
|
2004 7 |
kute-uchi |
Japan |
|
report of restoration and photos by C. Nishioka |
Arms and Armor Research no. 144. F. Nishioka |
|
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
England, GB |
17th c. |
Instructions |
Early English Books Online. Informer: L. Forgelman & L. Swsles |
|
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m |
|
|
report |
F. Sorber. |
|
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m |
England, GB |
15th-17th c. |
report with technical analysis. |
|
|
|
2005 8 |
Braiding Techniques of Toraja People (1). indigenous braiding |
f-h l-m method 2 |
Mamasa Toraja, the Sulawesi Is., Indonesia. |
21st c. |
Field research report, techniques and photos |
K. Kusakabe. Survey of 2005/2/12-19. |
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m, method 1, 2-person techniques |
England, GB |
17th c. |
instructions |
Illustrated Instructions; Basic Techniques II: covert and compound braids |
|
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m, method 1, 2-person techniques |
England, GB |
17th c. |
instructions |
Illustrated Instructions Series No. 8 |
|
|
2005 8 |
f-h l-m, kute-uchi |
Japan |
2005 |
exhibit catalogue |
Exhibit by L-m Braiding Group |
|
|
2006 9 |
Braiding in Toraja/L-m braiding (2). Indigenous braiding. Indonesia |
f-h l-m method 2. 2-person connection technique |
Sadan Toraja, the Sulawesi Is., Indonesia. |
21st c. |
Techniques and photos |
Surveys of 2005/8/28-9/10, 2005/12/08-29. K. Kusakabe |
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m method 2. 2-person connection technique |
Toraja, Indonesia. |
21st c. |
Report. Techniques |
Illustrated instructions; Basic Techniques II: |
|
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m method 2. 2-person connection technique |
Toraja, Indonesia. |
21st c. |
report, technique |
Illustrated Instruction Series no. 9: how to make Rante-rante.. |
|
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m |
Scotland, Denmark |
16th c. |
Technical analysis, photos |
Original document from the Danish National Archives. J. Boutrup. |
|
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m? |
Qinghai, China |
7-9th c. |
structural analysis, photo, report |
China: Dawn of Golden Age 200 BC-750 AD. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Informer: N. Speiser |
|
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
Ecuador |
20th c. |
Report. |
Hilos, tejidos, pieles: Mundo Shuar by C.Bianchi. 1976? |
|
|
2006 9 |
kute-uchi: 2-person connection method |
Japan |
21st c. |
report on the restoration of a medieval armor |
C. Nishioka |
|
|
2006 9 |
f-h l-m |
Europe, Central Asia, Near East, Northern Africa |
various |
report |
Informer: F. Sorber |
|
|
2006 9 |
l-m braiding |
Nara, Japan |
10/30 /05 |
symposium report |
M. Omura |
|
|
2006 9 |
l-m braiding |
general |
general |
Illustrated exhibition catalog |
editor; M. Kinoshita and H. Takeda. |
|
|
2006 9 |
l-m braiding |
general |
historic |
Symposium proceeding |
editor: Gangoji, Gangoji Institute. |
|
|
2007 10 |
f-h l-m, method 1 and 2 |
Colombia |
1990's |
detailed technical report, diagrams and photos, |
Walekuru v.1-2, 1999, M. R. Zapata. Informer: Peter Collingwood |
|
|
2007 10 |
f-h l-m, method 1 and 2 |
Colombia |
1990's |
instructions with diagrams. |
Walekuru v.1-2, 1999. |
|
|
2007 10 |
kute-uchi: 3-person connection method |
Kamakura, Japan |
12th-14th c. |
report, technical analysis and diagrams |
Informer: N. Kajitani |
|
|
2007 10 |
f-h l-m |
St. Gallen, Switzerland |
15th c. |
technical analysis and photo |
Textile Museum at St. Gallen, Switzerland. N. Speiser. |
|
|
2007 10 |
high possibility of being l-m braiding |
Hupei. China |
5th-3rd c. BCE |
Technical analysis and photo |
M. Omura |
|
|
2007 10 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
NY, USA |
present |
booklet in the medieval format |
K. Frodelius |
|
|
2007 10 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
GB |
2005 |
soft-cover book, VI, 125 pp. |
E. Benns & G. Barrett. |
|
|
2007 10 |
Weaving, tablet weaving, dyeing, l-m braiding. |
Sulawesi, Indonesia. |
2006 |
illustrated catalog. History, technical analysis. |
Exhibit at the Fukuoka Municipal Museum; The Keiko Kusakabe Collection Textile from Sulawesi |
|
|
2007 10 |
kumihimo, hair braiding, l-m braiding |
Copenhagen, Denmark |
2006 |
Workshop report |
K. Johansen. |
|
|
2008 11 |
f-h l-m, method 2 |
Finland |
1962 |
eyewitness report |
Saarta, Martta |
|
|
2008 11 |
Usages of many types of braids. |
China |
the 8th-3rd c, BC |
researches and analysis |
Braids appearing in Chinese classics; M. Omura |
|
|
2008 11 |
Square braids, two 2-ridge flat braids |
Sichuan, China |
2007 |
eyewitness report |
Akiko Yoda |
|
|
2008 11 |
braids with an unorthodox pattern |
general |
|
research report |
M. Kinoshita |
|
|
2008 11 |
L-m and stand-and-bobbin braiding |
Utsunomiya, Japan. |
2007 |
report by volunteer teacher |
Kimura, Yuriko |
|
|
2008 11 |
Fingerloop Braiding with 9 (and more) loops |
f-h l-m method 2 |
USA |
2008 |
instruction |
Illustrated instruction series no. 11. I. Crickmore |
|
2008 11 |
All braiding techniques |
Kyoto, Japan |
11/12-16/ 2007 |
Co chairs: Makiko Tada, Horoyuki Hamada |
KIT Future Applied Conventional Technology Centre, Kyoto, Japan. |
|
|
2008 11 |
Various kinds of braiding techniques |
Kyoto, Japan |
2007 |
soft cover book |
Editor: M. Tada, H. Hamada |
|
|
2009 12 |
f-h l-m |
England, GB |
17th c. |
book review |
found at the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford. N. Speiser |
|
|
2009 12 |
f-h l-m method 2 |
Sulawesi Is., Indonesia. |
2005-2008 |
anthropological reports, technical analysis. Photos, maps |
K. Kusakabe |
|
|
2009 12 |
l-m braids as ornaments for Sepu |
Sulawesi Is., Indonesia. |
2008 |
essay |
K. Kusakabe |
|
|
2009 12 |
f-h l-m two-person SCOT braid, |
England |
17th c. |
Illustrated instruction seroes: no. 12 |
The Serene Collection: J. Boutrup |
|
|
2009 12 |
Publication: European Loop Braiding: Investigation and Results, Part I and II |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
Europe |
2009 |
Announcement. Soft cover books |
Noemi Speiser, Joy Boutrup. Publisher: Jennie Parry |
|
2009 12 |
f-h l-m Method 1 |
Scotland, Denmark |
16th c. |
Reprinted in Strand 2008. |
Strands 2008, Braid Society. Joy Boutrup |
|
|
2009 12 |
Publication: Braiding techniques for the braids stored in the Shosoin |
kute-uchi |
Japan |
8th c. |
Report |
Bulletin of Office of Shosoin Treasure House, No. 31, 2009. M. Kinoshita. |
ILLUSTRATED L-M BRAIDIMG INSTRUCTION SERIES: NO. 13
Three Warp-twining Braids
GUIDELINES FOR RECORDING L-M TECHNIQUES:
Report of accounts on field encounters would greatly be appreciated.
•Mary Dusenbury sent us 6 photos of a 13th-c. loop braid tied to a document. She found them in a Lessines, Belgium, museum converted from an old convent-hospital. The braid is of an unorthodox pattern, and was usd to attach a medallion to the document. The document may contain some information, which unfortunately is illegible under the low lighting of the museum. Thank you, Mary. This may be another example showing a loop braid used as a seal string (News No. 9).
ACTIVITIES RELATING TO L-M B RAIDING:
Announcement: Establishment of the KUMIHIMO SOCIETY.
Kyoto Institute of Technology. It plans to hold public lectures as well as academic meetings, publish academic journals and bi-annual newsletters on the subject of braided structures. Five annual kumihimo workshops are also planned, one of which is dedicated to the Kute-uchi technique.
For the coming year: 04/2010 to 03/2011
Kute-uchi Kumihimo Giho Kenkyukai (KKGK) = Kute-uchi Braiding Technique Study The general founding meeting was held on 4/24/2010. The office will be in Group: The 5th Term (2010) Bi-monthly meetings, 10:00 to 16:00 4/18, 6/20, 8/22, 10/31, 11/28, 2/not-yet-fixed/11 at The Gangoji Cultural Property Research Institute, Chuin-cho, Nara-shi, Japan. Research subject: Shosoin flat braids with a regular twill pattern. There will be extra meetings on 5/16、7/18、9/11. They will be dedicated to the preparation for the 2010-GeiBunShin-grant video project.
Publications in 2010
EUROPEAN LOOP BRAIDING: Investigations and Results
By Noémi Speiser, Joy Boutrup and others
The last two parts, Part III and IV, are scheduled to be published in late 2010. Part III will include braids on ecclesiastical textiles of the Bridgettine workshops in Sweden by Noémi Speiser in co-operation with Inger Estham and Mari-Louise Franzén, whilst Part IV will include a number of reports on braids from several museums. Each volume has in-depth research, excellent diagrams and clear detailed color photographs. If you wish to receive a notice with more details, costs and how to order, please e-mail Jennie Parry (jennieparry2003@yahoo.co.uk) or send a SAE to Jennie Parry, 21 St Philip’s Road, Leicester LE5 5TR. UK.
Activities related to l-m braiding in the past year: 1/2009 to 3/2010.
Publications
Parts I and II of the above title are available from the same publisher as above.
"Loop-manipulation braiding, Basic instructions" by Noémi Speiser, third edition, revised in 2009, A5, 20 pages, black & white photographs, clear instructions & diagrams. price £4 post free, are available from the same publisher as above.
DVD "Manual Braids/Intrecci Manual," published by Le Arti Tessili, the Italian non-profit organization. This is the outcome of a three-day lecture/workshop Noemi Speiser recently conducted in Italy for the organization. Her favorite subject of the basis of fabric structures is discussed. Available through Associazione Le Arti Tessilli, Via M. Ciotti, 1- 33086 Montereale Valcellina (PN) Italy. E-mail: info@leartitesselli.it. (25 Euro) Or Contact giovannaimperia@mac.com .
Workshops, Conferences and Research Activities:
Mari Omura attended The 5th International Conference hosted by the Korean Traditional Costume Institute, Dankook University at The National Palace Museum of Korea; August 20th, 2009. Subject: Present status and prospect of reproduction of traditional costume antiquities of Korea, Japan and China.
Kute-uchi Kumihimo Giho Kenkyukai (KKGK): The 4th Term (2009) Bi-monthly meetings, 10:00 to 16:00 2/22, 4/25, 6/28, 8/23, 11/01, 11/29, 2//11 at The Gangoji Cultural Property Research Institute, Chuin-cho, Nara-shi, Japan. Research subject: Shosoin flat braids with a regular pattern.
Exhibitions: A. Yoda and C. Kawabe, ‘Swatches and Photographic Materials of loop braiding’ at Sakai City Greenify Center, 2009/3/2～4; Sakai-shi. 2009 marked the 25th anniversary of their annual exhibition. They also gave demo and practice sessions of l-m braiding at the exhibit.
PLEASE SEND IN YOUR ACTIVITIES RELATED TO THE L-M BRAIDING!!
Again this year, we received information from many readers, giving us yet stronger convictions of l-m braiding having been used long in time and wide in area. It is encouraging to see that many people are exposed to the technique through demonstrations given by volunteers.
Acknowledgement: Ingrid Crickmore, Akiko Yoda for contributing articles; Mary Dusenbury for sending photos of l-m braids found on her trip; Shirley Berlin for a monetary contribution; Junko Watabe sending me cans of green tea leaves, Mei-his Chen and June Kinoshita for editorial assistance; and those who sent us notes of encouragement.
L-M BRIC News is accessed through the internet: http://www.lmbric.net (English version), http://www.lmbric.net/njindex.html (Japanese version). For those who have difficulty accessing the internet or wish to have the hardcopy version, please send a request to the editor. We will be happy to make a full hard copy set from the web and mail it to you, free of charge.
L-M BRIC News is a totally self-supported information journal of the Loop-Manipulation Braiding Research and Information Center founded by Masako Kinoshita to promote the study and propagation of L-M braiding. Donations from interested readers, however, will be appreciated. Please send donations to Masako Kinoshita, 5 Winthrop Place, Ithaca, NY 14850, USA. As for a \ contribution, please send for the detail to Masako at 5 Winthrop Place, Ithaca, NY, 14850. Thank you.