Note 1.@ Lois Swales, BFA, Empire State College, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY.@ She fell in love with textile structures from the moment she saw for the first time the magnified tiny threads that make up weave structures in her textile analysis course.@ She is an independent researcher on fingerloop braiding, other narrow wears and passementerie techniquesNote 2.@ Lisa Fogelman, was a web developer at the Office of Information Technology, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY, and is now working in the Washington, DC area.@ She is interested in the origins of knitting.@ SCA member.@ Learned the L-M from Swales.@
Note 3.@ EEBO = Early English Books Online.
URL: "Natura Exenterata: or Nature Unbowelled"
The PDF of the original from the collection of the British Library is downloadable page by page.@ The site, however, is only accessible to those registered to the EEBO.@ See the activities column at the end of the News No. 8 for more information. <>
Note 4.@ eTreatise for Making of Lacesf in gThe Tollmache Book of Secrets.h
Note 5.@ L-M BRIC News No. 5 and No. 6.
Note 6. For reference to the Tollemache book, we used Xerox copies, received from N. Speiser in 1995, of a draft of the transcription of the original Tollemache book.@ Speiser's Old English Pattern Books for Loop Braiding (OEPB) were also referenced.@ As the source of the recipes of l-m braiding in Natura Exenterata, we used printed copies from the downloads from EEBO available at Olin Library, Cornell University.
The 15th-c records: The original book of "The Tollemache Book of Secrets; Facsimile reproduction of the Tollemache book of Secrets with introduction and transcription by Prof. J. Griffith, the Roxburgh Club of Antiques, 1997; "Tollemache Treatise on the Making of Laces", commented transcription by E.G, Stanley in "Chaucer and Middle English Studies in Honour of Russel Hope Robbins, London: 1974; "Harley", The British Library MS Harley 2320, dated as very early 15th c. by E. G. Stanley.
The 17th-c. pattern books: see bibliography.
Note 7. Recipes for all single course oblique twining=SCOT (or sasanamigumi) braids are counted as one, so are those for all SCOT braids with reversal (or Kara-kumi).
Note 8. OEPB, IID, IIIA.@ Lady Bindloss's notebook (17th c.) has a curious pseudo recipe for a single-course oblique twining in 2 sections using bobbins and a cushion.@ (OEPB IIID, p. 130) @
Note 9. The h-h l-m have been used over 1200 years in Japan until its demise in late 19th c
Note 10. Kusakabe's report on her finding that duo braiding is actually practiced in the Sulawesi Is., Indonesia, appears in this issue.
Note 11. Keiko Kusakabe graduated from Tokyo University of Education majoring in fine art.@ Lecturer, Dept. of Liberal Art, Tokyo Kaseigakuin Daigaku.@ She has been involved since 1997 in collecting and conducting research on textile arts of the Toraja People in the Sulawesi Is., Indonesia.@ She discovered in 2000 a card weaving technique which had never been reported before as being used by people living Mamasa area.@ She continues surveys and research of Mamasa and Sadan/Toraja region.@ Her trip for this year (2005) received a Nomura Fundation grant.
Note 12.@ "Sepu'" means a pochette and "susu" milk.@ The nickname has come from the embroidered cone-shaped bottom corners that evoke woman's breasts.
Note 13.@ According to Kamus Toraja-Indonesia (dictionary), "ka bi" means: 1. To beckon by shaking a hand up and down.@2. To make a lattice with yarns by holding them on the fingers and crossing them.@ While the work is progressing, another person helps to tighten it.@ Usually women are engaged.
"Ma'" or "mang" are prefixed to a word root and turns the word into a verb.@@ Example: ma ka bi.Note 14.@ "Rante" means a large expanse of a land.@ It also means a field used for ceremonies outside of village compound.@ Thus "rante rante" seems to be a name that evokes a nice feeling.
Note 15DKhanty People who live in the western Siberia have been assumed to use Method 2.@ They, however, produce UO braids presenting an exception to those who use method 2 but live in east of India in Asia.
Note 16. OEPB IIa, p. 53-57.
Note 17.@ Elizabeth Benns is by profession a lawyer.@ She is a member of Soper Lane, a group that focusing on the life and professional work of the late medieval silkwomen, who made silk narrow wares. While researching these women she came across British Library Manuscript Harley 2320, with its instructions for loop braiding and this has led her into studying these particular types of braid in detail. She is now working with a colleague, Gina Barrett, on a book to describe the manuscript and produce a workable version of the text in modern English.